Minggu, 14 Oktober 2012

Being Modern: Street style


Been getting compliments on your new shirt? Did you once buy an item of clothing because it looked like something Kate Moss might wear? Are you friends with Nick Grimshaw?
Well, none of that matters. Because these days, you're not truly "fashion" until you've been street-snapped – papped by a fashion blogger while you're on the hoof. Forget stealing your soul, this means millions want to steal your entire outfit.
Many people cite Bill Cunningham as the father of street-style photography. Since 1978, Bill, his bike and a battered Nikon have searched Manhattan for the fabulously dressed for his New York Times column. It's considered such an honour to appear in "On the Street" that even frosty fashion editor Anna Wintour said, "We all get dressed for Bill." Except most of us probably don't. But that's not the attitude if you want to make it into the street-style hall of fame.
The movement also owes something to i-D magazine and the pictures it published of punks leaning moodily against scuffed walls. Suddenly glossy, perfectly retouched, big-budget magazine shoots were so last season and it was all about "keeping it real".
From The Sartorialist to (the slightly serial-killer-sounding) FaceHunter, street-style bloggers now travel the world searching for the best-dressed beautiful people. They've spawned books, ad campaigns and magazine features.
So what should one do to become street-style bait? Obviously it's not enough to be really cool (or why haven't we made it on to a blog yet?). To truly capture the essence of all things "street" you'll need an urban setting – there should be a fixed-gear bike or a Banksy behind you – and you'll be in a state of what fashion people call "deshabille" – roughly translated as "a hot mess".
Girls must spend three hours making their hair look as if they've had a fight with a wind machine, guys will need an oh-so-ironic moustache. And most importantly of all, you'll have an air of insouciant sulkiness, because one should never look remotely happy about getting street-snapped. That just wouldn't be hip. Kate Wills
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Sabtu, 13 Oktober 2012

Meet The Fashion Industry's Highest Paid Executives, But Where Are The Women?


It’s good to be an executive in fashion these days. Women’s Wear Dailycompiled a list of the top earning fashion executives at publicly traded companies in 2011 in the U.S., based on proxies filed with the SEC. A whopping 67 executives in the sector made more than $5 million last year—taking into account stock options. Unfortunately the gender gap in executive compensation is alive and well within the industry—only six women made the list. It’s particularly confounding considering that the fashion industry is supported largely by the purchasing power of women.
Sitting at the top of the list is J.C. Penney CEO Ron Johnson, who pocketed nearly $52.3 million last year. The top earning woman on the list,Ralph Lauren Executive Vice President Jackwyn Nemerov, earned a little over $12 million in 2011. That’s over a $40 million difference. No woman broke into the top 20.
Other women who made the cut include Ann Inc. CEO Kay Krill, who earned almost $10.8 million, CEO and President of Victoria’s Secret Limited Brands,Sharen Jester Turney, who earned just shy of $9.6 million and TargetExecutive Vice President Kathryn Tesija, who brought in $6.03 million.
Other top earners from the list include Abercrombie & Fitch CEO Michael Jeffries, Iconix President and CEO Neil Cole, Ralph Lauren, the Chairman and CEO of his namesake brand, Executive Creative Director of Coach Reed Krakoff and Nike President and CEO Mark Parker. Notably, four J.C. Penney executives made the top ten (all men) despite the company’s plummeting sales and its drop in customer counts last year.
In a lot of ways the list doesn’t give a complete picture of the most powerful women in fashion. Several key women fashion executives were notably absent from the list because they work for private companies, including Global CEO of Chanel Maureen Chiquet. It’s a fair assumption that Chiquet is raking it in. Burberry CEO Angela Ahrendts didn’t make the cut because the company she heads is traded on the London Stock Exchange. She took home around $24.5 million in pay, perks and shares last year.
Fashion it seems isn’t much different than the business world at large in terms of its gender gap in executive compensation. The highest paid CEO of a publicly traded company in the U.S. in 2011 was Apple’s CEO Tim Cook, who raked in almost $378 million including salary, bonus, perks and stock options. Well behind Cook is top-earning woman Kraft CEO Irene Rosenfeld, whose total compensation was just shy of $22 million in 2011.
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Beauty: The best grooming products for men


1. Re-charge black pepper body wash
Black peppercorn oil is just the thing to get the senses fired up on these chilly autumn mornings.
£18/300ml, Molton Brown,moltonbrown.co.uk
2. L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme Sport
Bergamot and grapefruit combine in this breath-of- fresh-air update on Issey Miyake's classic fragrance.
From £38.50/50ml, Issey Miyake, available nationwide
3. Dry skin foot cream
The end of summer doesn't mean feet should be neglected. Enriched with Fair Trade shea butter, this softening cream is a balm for tired soles.
£18.50/150ml, L'Occitane, 020-7907 0301
4. Revitalise+ moisturiser
This non-greasy formula is absorbed quickly so there's no excuse to miss out the most vital skin-care step.
£8.99/50ml, Dove Men+Care, available nationwide
5. Age Defense for Eyes
A multi-pronged attack against the signs of ageing, this lightweight cream reduces dark circles and strengthens the eye area.
£24/15ml, Clinique, 08700 342566
6. Sensitive Shave Cream
The towelling cloth that comes with this soothing, gently foaming cream will help achieve a closer shave by conditioning hairs and opening pores.
£12.25/100ml, Liz Earle, lizearle.com


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Minggu, 07 Oktober 2012

theFashionSpot Brings Home OMMA Award for Website Excellence in Fashion and Beauty Category


LOS ANGELES--(BUSINESS WIRE)--
Evolve Media Corp.’s theFashionSpot (TFS) (www.thefashionspot.com), the largest fashion-focused community and fashion editorial site on the web, was honored with the OMMA Award for Website Excellence in the Fashion/Beauty/Cosmetics category at the 2012 OMMA Awards on Monday, October 1st. The annual event, hosted by MediaPost in New York City, recognizes web publishers and developers for outstanding content, design and user interface.
theFashionSpot is one of the most respected sources for fashion on the web and is comprised of industry insiders, including designers, models, and fashionistas. Covering everything from fashion trends to celebrity style and behind the scene reporting of runway shows, TFS delivers the latest news from experts with exclusive access to events and coveted designers. The site’s thriving community is actively engaged in fashion-focused discussions and has generated over 8.5 million posts.
“theFashionSpot team is so honored to receive the prestigious OMMA Award,” said Mike Dodge, President of AtomicOnline, Evolve Media Corp.’s publishing division. “We are very proud of how far the site has come; what began as a tight-knit community of designers, stylists and fashionistas has grown into an award-winning fashion editorial destination that reaches 2.4 million beauty & style fans each month. We’ll continue to provide our community, as well as our marketers, with premium content on the latest styles, hottest events and exclusive industry buzz.”
About theFashionSpot:
Originating in July 2001, theFashionSpot (www.theFashionSpot.com) made a name for itself as an invitation only community of designers, stylists and fashionistas that dissected designer collections, celebrating some and skewering others. Building the largest fashion-focused community on the web, theFashionSpot.com has grown into a well-respected fashion editorial site with a strong and active community element. The site currently reaches 2.4 million unique visitors each month, with close to 70,000 registered members playing an active role in the site’s forum. It is that in-market participation and authenticity that makes theFashionSpot.com the largest fashion community site and attracts other sites such as ShoeBlog, My‘It’Things and FadedYouthBlog for cross-promotion, content syndication and ad sales. theFashionSpot is part of AtomicOnline (www.AtomicOnline.com), the publishing unit of Evolve Media (www.evolvemediacorp.com).
MediaPost Communications
MediaPost Communications is an integrated publishing and content company whose mission is to provide a complete array of resources for media, marketing and advertising professionals. MediaPost's annual OMMA Awards celebrate the year’s most innovative and brilliant online advertising creative, campaigns and web sites across 66 categories within three disciplines. The 2012 OMMA Awards winners were announced during the gala reception on October 1st at the conclusion of the first day of the OMMA Global Conference. www.mediapost.com/events
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Hot stuff: the finest trends and buys for winter


The puffer
Take your inspiration from the ski slopes this winter and invest in a puffer. The quilted overcoat is having a resurgence; worn over a suit, it makes something uptown a little more downtown. French label Moncler is still the go-to brand for puffers and this season has collaborated with the British designer, Christopher Raeburn. His military-inspired take on cold-weather clothing is a masterclass in the trend. £215, Mauro Griffoni, thecorner.com
Paisley
A print that can be traced back thousands of years to its Persian roots clearly has staying power. On neck ties, pocket squares and shirts, the tear-drop motif continues to adorn menswear. And because it makes more of an impact than its sedate cousin plaid, a less-is-more approach when wearing this pattern is advisable. £5, topman.com
The roll neck
The humble roll neck is the only knit to wear with a suit this season. On the catwalk, Prada layered them under shirts for the ultimate in dandy refinement. If you do opt to wear one on its own, then avoid tucking it into your jeans or trousers. You want to be the epitome of Left Bank suave; not look as though you have unwittingly enrolled in the Simon Cowell school of dressing. £130, johnsmedley.com
Colour
Traditionally men only ever wear colour on the top half of their bodies, usually in the shape of a shirt or tie. But this season there's a veritable rainbow of jeans and chinos on offer. From raspberry and cerulean to forest-green, these vibrant hues will certainly let your legs do the talking. To anchor this flash of colour, simply team with neutral tops in greys and blacks.
Red: £145, Folk. Yellow: £145, Faconnable. Both from mrporter.com
The pinstripe
No longer just the uniform of bankers and city traders, pinstripe suiting is fashionable once again. This time, the cut of the suit is key to your sartorial success – gone is the bulky, shoulder-padded giant of the 1980s and instead a slimline version, be it single- or double-breasted, is left in its place. Dress down with a chambray shirt and bright-coloured, paisley-print tie. Power lunches optional.
Suit £425, shirt £79, reiss.co.uk
Jack Spade + Barbour
A collaboration between British heritage brand Barbour and American label Jack Spade was only ever going to yield satisfying results and the waxed canvas bags are a sight to behold. Choose from a tote, briefcase or pocket messenger, all lined with Barbour's signature check, so even the interiors of the bags are easy on the eyes, even if what you fill them with isn't. £290, jackspade.com
Amber delights
Winter's coming. What better way to indulge your olfactory senses than with a warming amber fragrance? Nearly two decades old and filled with complexity, Ambre Sultan is one of master perfumer Serge Luten's bestselling scents. £69 for 50ml, House of Fraser, nationwide
Monkstrap shoes
The monkstrap – a term which refers to the buckle on the side of the shoe – is perhaps the most versatile piece of footwear. Here's a shoe that can easily be worn with either a suit, jeans or shorts. This autumn, even wearing a suede version is a subtle and clever way of giving your favourite pair of jeans a confidence boost. £245, russellandbromley.co.uk

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Jumat, 05 Oktober 2012

The Anatomy of Lady Gaga's High-Fashion Feud with a New York Times Critic


After lowering herself over a champagne bucket in the name of performance art last month, Lady Gaga lent her artistic services to the high-fashion world during a recent Thierry Mugler runway presentation in Paris. The Grammy winner re-wrote and re-recorded lyrics to her single "Cake Like Lady Gaga" specifically so that the song could be used as the soundtrack to Mugler's Spring 2013 collection debut. In the runway remix, Gaga digitally lowers her voice to sound like a man, mentions her recent weight gain, and makes a dig at New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn, Gaga's sparring partner in an ongoing feud. For those unfamiliar with said feud, fashion, and provocative runway slang, read ahead for a loose translation of the lyrics, some history on the feud, and a video of the controversial presentation.
The lyrics (which can be heard in the video of the runway show, below) read: "Mugler's show, I'm Lady Gaga. Bad bitches gonna walk the runway, walk bitches like Lady Gaga." Easy enough. "Bad bitches" equals "fierce models."
Gaga adds, "Ortenberg, you can suck my dick, walk bitch, you ain't Lady Gaga." Ortenberg is Horyn's boyfriend, Liz Claiborne founder Art Ortenberg, who once wrote in to Women's Wear Daily in defense of his girlfriend. In the same message, he also advised Gaga to "grow up."
Gaga adds again, "Nicopanda got style, trick, Cathy Horyn your style ain't dick. Walk a mile in these foot-high heels, I run in these you ain't running shit. You chew beef, I wear meat - I'm getting fat and so is my bank. From a sold-out world tour, bitch." Per The Hollywood Reporter, Nicopanda is an online gaming character created by Gaga's designer friend Nicola Formichetti to model his virtual fashions. "I'm getting fat" likely refers to her semi-controversial weight gain. The world tour is her recent "Born This Way Ball."
The feud either began when Horyn publicly railed against Donatella Versace for lending Lady Gaga pieces from the Versace archive for her Edge of Glory video -- ("Be choosier, Ms. Versace," Horyn wrote at the time) -- or when Lady Gaga stole Horyn's boyfriend, Horyn retaliated by feeding Gaga high-calorie nutrition bars she swore were diet, and then Gaga re-retaliated by releasing an incriminating burn book at school. Sadly for Horyn, this is not the critic's only fashion feud in Paris this week: she was not invited to the Saint Laurent show by designer Hedi Slimane. After viewing video of the presentation, Horyn wrote in her New York Times review that "Mr. Slimane's clothes lacked a new fashion spirit."
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Top 10 Trends: Milan Fashion Week Spring 2013

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Top 10 Trends: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013


RETRO VISION
A number of designers paid tribute to decades past, from major mod moments at Louis Vuitton, seventies rockers at Saint Laurent and Isabel Marant, pop icons of the eighties at Jean Paul Gaultier, and supermodels of the nineties at Balmain.
Photo: Louis Vuitton
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